Sunday, 6 May 2012
A new arrival to Vinomondo, the delightful 94 Clocher (£25.99) is drinking superbly well. For the record, 2004 brought a mixed bag of weather to Bordeaux and was naturally overshadowed by the stunning vintage which followed in 2005. But it was rated at 88 points by Parker and the general view of wine experts was that there were gems to be found. Clos du Clocher is just such a gem. The 04 vintage is 70 percent Merlot and 30 percent Cabernet Franc. The harvest began at the end of September and the alcohol level is 13.5 percent (compare that to 14.5 per cent for the 09 vintage which just scored four stars with Decanter magazine). I decanted the wine an hour before serving with a main course of tartiflette followed by several French cheeses. On the nose, there is tons of black fruit (blueberry, forest fruits), vanilla, a tiny hint of herbs and smokiness. On the palate it is rich, medium bodied with a beautiful, silky mouthfeel. A gently acidity lifted a long and satisfying finish. It worked superbly with the fat of the reblochon and bacon in tartiflette. Of the cheeses, it matched best with something a little tangy. Thanks to a brief trip to France we had a decent slab of cantal but if that's not available a good mature cheddar would do the trick. But pop to the European market at Conwy quay next weekend and you might well find some cantal. Either way, this lovely Pomerol is well worth a try.